Pho 87

Pho 87 always looks closed from the outside. This nondescript building in Chinatown has darkened windows and a grating over the front door that obscures the neon “open” sign. But once you realize it’s actually not shut down and get inside, you’ll find some excellent pho. The steak one in particular—which comes topped with a heap of fresh herbs—is a textbook example of how to do something simple and very, very well.