LDNReview
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Rochelle Canteen
Included In
When the next global catastrophe hits, you won’t find us in a surivalist’s bunker or raiding Costco for baked beans, because we’ll be too busy clinking glasses of crémant at Rochelle Canteen. Lots of people talk about death row meals, but this converted bike shed turned chic British restaurant in Shoreditch is our end of the world place.
To enjoy Rochelle Canteen’s bliss, first you have to get in. There’s a wall, there’s a buzzer, there’s some aimless wandering and hissing, “But that says it’s a school”. And that’s where you need to go. Once inside Arnold Circus’ garden of enjoyment you’ll be greeted like a lost dog or someone suffering from custard withdrawal, and from thereon in it’s an exercise in glorious escapism.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
British summertime is when Rochelle Canteen is in its element. There are 10-or-so tables in the four walls of the shed, but most of the seating is in the connected giant greenhouse. When the sun is shining and a plate of neon radishes with cod’s roe is put in front of you, this restaurant feels like a hazy British daydream. Intimate, candlelit dinners are also lovely, but Rochelle Canteen lives for the long lunch.
There’s a reassuring straightforwardness about everything here. The daily changing menu is black and white. Times New Roman. Plain and simple classics. From bread, through to braised squid with aioli, down to a perfect ice cream sundae. The staff—who mix cheery helpfulness and innate nonchalance—are graduates of the hypothetical London art school foundation in hospitality. They’re destined to end up at one of two institutions: Rochelle Canteen or St. John. Which makes sense, as Margot Henderson (who co-runs this joint) is married to Fergus Henderson (who co-runs that joint).
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
It doesn’t feel like concerns get much bigger than a brown shrimp being dropped onto a Shrimps jacket at Rochelle Canteen. It’s east London’s little Garden of Eden that’s a few minutes away from Shoreditch High Street Station and, whether you’re here for lunch or dinner, you’ll walk out 60 quid lighter and 100 times happier. Hopefully the world isn’t ending anytime soon but, if it is, you know where to find us.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
A Soup
The soups change all the time and every one we've had has been a hit. This pumpkin one with sage butter is particularly wholesome and soothing, like a Saturday morning when you stayed in the night before.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Smoked Cod’s Roe & Radishes
A certified Rochelle Canteen classic. This silky smooth cod's roe is a must-order if on. Dip it, wipe it off the plate, and definitely eat those radish leaves as well.
A Bitter Leaf Salad
Think endive. Think puntarelle. Think anchovy. Or shrimp. And an oily, salty dressing that will have you pining for a regrettable Ryanair flight to somewhere in Italy.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Braised Meat Or Fish
Be it perfectly soft beef shin or melt in your mouth cuttlefish, Rochelle Canteen is an essential place if you’re looking for a hearty and deliciously juicy plate of meat or fish.
Squid Or Cuttlefish With Aioli
You know you're in the right kind of restaurant when you're getting an ice cream scoop of aioli. There will be absolutely none of that smeary nonsense here. This plate, whether it's squid or cuttlefish, is another essential if on. It's rich and moreish, and will definitely KO you to the sofa later on.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
New Potatoes
Butter. New potatoes. Salt. Pepper. More butter. Perfect.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Things With Custard
If the Famous Five were about now, this is what they'd call their podcast. But at Rochelle Canteen it's just a beautiful reality of their desserts. One day you might have chilled poached pear with vanilla custard, and the next you may have rhubarb. Either way, you're happy.
Things With Ice Cream
A good ice cream is like a good relationship: sweet, sometimes a little bitter, potentially sickening if overindulged, but ultimately missed when it's gone. Rochelle Canteen makes excellent ice cream. The brownie, shortbread, or whatever that comes alongside isn't unwelcome either.