DENReview
For some reason, it seems like every trendy restaurant in Denver serves up some kind of cuisine "fusion" on its menu. Maybe it's because Richard Sandoval did so well here with Mexico meets sushi (Zengo), or maybe it's all the ethnic diversity in the state (one Asian guy). Either way, Linger brings in the crowds, and it does so with foods from all over the world.
Unless you literally just moved to Denver yesterday, you probably don't need me to give you the full rundown on this well known restaurant. Then again, maybe you did just move here yesterday, so here we go. Welcome to Linger. This place takes fusion so seriously that there's a whole section on the menu dedicated to "Europe and Eurasia." Where exactly is Eurasia? Wasn't that a band?
Linger is the second successful restaurant from the team behind Root Down, and much like its sister restaurant, Linger focuses on natural ingredients and healthy menu options, and both source heavily from Colorado purveyors. But while Root Down is the neighborhood hang, this is the destination restaurant. It's a huge space that's best built for the summer, with big garage door walls that open up to the fresh air, and one of the best rooftops you can find anywhere in town, even despite some new construction obstructions. Not bad for a building that used to be a mortuary.
I don't know of many other restaurants where you can get ceviche, sweet potato fries, a duck bun, and a masala dosa all from the same kitchen, and I certainly don't know of many restaurants that could do that well. But somehow, Linger pulls it off. Sort of. There are a handful of dishes here that are really special, and you have to give them a ton of credit for being unique in their approach and execution. The service is good, they have a solid wine list, and you can eat well here and not spend a ton of money. But there are also enough misses on the menu that you've gotta stay on your toes and know what to order. We'll help you out in the Food Rundown below, but go in knowing that brunch is probably better than dinner, and either way you're going to have to do some sampling to figure out what you like and what you don't. Oh, and if it's not snowing or raining Peyton Manning touchdowns, make sure to sit on the roof.