PARReview

photo credit: Wenkang Shan

Aloyau de boeuf with glass of red wine and side of fresh bread at Bistrot Paul Bert

Bistrot Paul Bert

French

11th Arr.

$$$$Perfect For:Drinking Good WineSee And Be Seen
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Everyone from your dog walker to Ina Garten (to Ina Garten's dog walker) has proclaimed Bistrot Paul Bert the city's best. And it's not hard to see why. This place ticks all the classic bistro boxes. Service is efficient and resolutely Francophone, no matter how many Americans occupy the wooden tables. There are tiled floors and a wraparound bar. The complimentary gougères are creamy puffs of cheesy bliss, and the steak au poivre is downright luxurious, blanketed in a black peppercorn-rich sauce that'll clear your sinuses. (The frites that go with it are crispy enough to hold their texture even after you drag them through the sauce.) Yes, some dishes miss the mark, like the overcooked egg-mayo or bland chocolate soufflé. And, yes, the truffle-studded everything and branded sweatshirts feel like a money grab. But look past them. This place is an institution for a reason—there's just no need to give up your firstborn for a reservation.

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