LDNReview

photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli

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7.8

Blacklock Soho

Steaks

Soho

$$$$Perfect For:Big GroupsBirthdaysCatching Up With Mates
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Blacklock is somewhere you can fall back on when a central Soho location and crowd-pleasing steaks are needed. The steak restaurant and chop house is practically a mini empire at this point—with Canary Wharf, Covent Garden, City, and Shoreditch outposts. We like the Soho one for its moody basement dining room, complete with industrial-looking posts that act as blackboard menus. The wood panelling and leather seats are smart enough to impress a suited colleague, and if the sleek interiors don’t do it, the perfectly pink porterhouse will. But it’s also relaxed enough that big groups in jeans and boxy white tees—potentially with burger juices dripped down the front—can laugh loudly across circular tables without getting any side-eye. Know that some of the sides are underwhelming and the Sunday roast is disappointing, but the likeable, lively spot is perfect for when you just want an excellent steak (the chilli hollandaise is the superior sauce).

The interiors of Blacklock in Soho.

photo credit: Blacklock

Food Rundown

The Porterhouse steak at Blacklock in Soho.

Porterhouse Chop

If we were to get one thing here, it would be the porterhouse, which is delivered to the table with MVP energy. It comes on a silver platter and the pink pieces of perfectly cooked meat are capped with juicy but not-too-thick fat. When people talk about mouthwatering steak, they mean this. It's big enough for two to share and we like it best dunked in chilli hollandaise.

Blacklock image

photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli

The Blacklock Burger

While not one of our favourite burgers in London, it’s solid and we’re big fans of the jammy, slow-cooked onions and the fact that there's no salad to pick out and ignore.

The Sunday roast at Blacklock in Soho.

photo credit: Blacklock

All In Roast

The huge, messy sharing pile of meat, vegetables, and yorkshires has an air of ‘dude food’ circa 2000 about it. Typically, restaurants who know how to treat meat well do a good Sunday roast, but Blacklock’s is a bit of a letdown. The beef is pleasingly tender but the pork and lamb are lacklustre. Sides like watery cauliflower cheese and soggy roasties feel like an afterthought.

Barbecued Baby Gems & Anchovy Dripping

This reads a lot better than it tastes. The barbecuing could've been taken further to get more char and we couldn't taste the anchovy dripping at all. Which is a shame because it sounds like the perfect accompaniment to a big meaty main.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

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