Astier

Astier is a refreshing change-up steeped in old-school charm in an area overrun with small plates and minimalist Scandi-chic décor. Sit at a leather banquette, spread your gingham napkin on your lap, and soak in the service spectacle you'd usually find in places charging twice these prices. Many dishes arrive in glinting copper pots and plated tableside, like the spheres of fried mashed potato "dauphine" that come with the steak au poivre. Great classics aside, Astier hits its stride when it gets playful: a stewed lamb shoulder seasoned more like a tagine with lemon, spices, and olives, or French country lapin à la moutarde taken off the bone, rolled into a more refined roasted rabbit roulade, and smothered in mustard cream. Since their once-unlimited cheese basket is no longer on the menu (it’s now just five cheeses on a plate), you’ll have room to end date night with one of the city’s best babas au rhum.