Frances

As far as local, seasonal new-American restaurants go, there aren't many in the city worth fussing about. Except for Frances. This white-walled spot isn’t serving anything radical, but everything is done exceedingly well, from a fennel soup that warms you up on a foggy day to the housemade sourdough that's one of the pillowiest bread we’ve had in recent memory. The reginette is simple but takes care of your pasta needs, and the black cod is wonderfully cooked alongside crisp asparagus. You can’t go wrong with any of the desserts, but the lumberjack cake with cardamom ice cream is a toffee pudding-esque standout. Come on a weekday when it’s slightly easier to get a table, but if you can get in on the weekend—go for it.