Speedy Romeo

Speedy Romeo has been around for over a decade, and up until a few years ago, there were two locations of this St. Louis-style pizza spot. The Lower East Side offshoot closed early in the pandemic, but the original in Clinton Hill is still around, though it’s considerably less of a scene than it was during the twenty-tens, when reservations were tough to get and the dining room was packed with Tinder dates.

If you’re coming here looking for the hallmarks of St. Louis-style pizza—a crispy, crackery crust, and the distinct taste of Provel cheese—you’ll probably leave a little bit disappointed. The dough is, well, doughy, and in most of the pies, the Provel gets buried under a heap of other ingredients. And, a little more egregiously, the cheese tends to slide off like a blanket that's been discarded in the middle of the night by a restless sleeper, even if you’re cutting it carefully with a knife and a fork.

The bechamel pies are the most interesting, so stick with things like the White Album that's topped with a mix of cheeses, including provel, or the Dangerfield, with pork-beef meatballs, ricotta, and basil. And if you’re with someone who likes their burger absolutely smothered in sauces, order that too, plus a ceasar salad for good measure.

Speedy Romeo does work great for a group or with kids, since the dining room is big and there’s plenty of space to spread out in the back. Basically, anyone who’s not a St. Louis purist—or someone who’s just looking for a casual hang where the pizza is incidental—will have a fine time here.